As sustainably-minded garment makers, our goal is to make items that will have a long life and see lots of use. But what about when our bodies change? Everyone experiences fluctuations in shape and size, so in this solo episode I explore how we can future proof our garment projects to accommodate that fact.
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Outerwear patterns
Coats and jackets:
- The Richmond Coat by Tessuti (up to 48” bust)
- Flow Jacket and Coat by Atelier Scammit (up to 56” bust)
- Traveller Coat by Bella Loves Patterns (up to 44” bust, available in 2 heights)
- Nova Coat and Jacket by Papercut Patterns (up to 46.5” bust)
- Nova Curve Coat and Jacket by Papercut Patterns (up to 60.6” bust)
Cardigan patterns:
My current favourite:
- Jamie Cardigan by Ready to Sew (up to 42” bust)
Patterns for cardigans worn open:
- Blackwood Cardigan by Helen’s Closet (up to 62” bust)
- Kinder Cardigan by MIY Workshop/Wendy Ward (up to 48” bust)
- Fjord Cardi by Papercut Patterns (up to 46.5” bust)

Image source: Papercut Patterns
Shawl pins and closures:

Image source: Textile Garden
Wrap style cardigan patterns:
- Coppelia Cardi by Papercut Patterns (up to 46.5” bust)
- Pearl Cardigan by Tilly and the Buttons (up to 60” bust)
Top, dress and jumpsuit patterns
Boxy Woven tops/dresses:
- Block Tee by Paper Theory Patterns (up to 56” bust)
- Georgia Tee and Dress by Elizabeth Suzann Studio (up to 58” bust)

Image source: Elizabeth Suzann Studio
Oversized style patterns:
- Olya Shirt and Dress by Paper Theory Patterns (up to 56” bust)
- Ellsworth Shirt by Merchant and Mills (up to 55” bust)
- Mara Oversized Sweater by kdornbier designs (up to 46” bust)
Trapeze shaped patterns:
- The Trapeze Dress by Merchant and Mills (up to 42” bust)
- Minttu Swing Top by Named Clothing (up to 46” bust)
- Rumi Tank by Christine Haynes (up to 56” bust)
Top and dress patterns with gathering or pleating at the neckline or into a yoke or panel:
- Roscoe Blouse and Dress by True Bias (up to 44.5” bust)
- Roscoe Blouse and Dress by True Bias (up to 57.5” bust)
- Petite Choses Blouse and Dress by Atelier Scammit (up to 45” bust)
- Vali Dress and Top by Pattern Fantastique (up to 51.5” bust)
- The Florence Top and Dress by Merchant and Mills (up to 55” bust)
- Lisa Dress by Tessuti (up to 42” bust)
- Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated (up to 58.5” bust)

Image source: Sew Liberated
Wrap dress and jumpsuit patterns:
- The Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns (up to 56” bust)
- Hali Wrap Dress and Jumpsuit by Named Clothing (up to 53” bust)
- Kielo Wrap Dress and Jumpsuit by Named Clothing (up to 53” bust)
- The Etta Dress by Merchant and Mills (up to 55” bust)
- Wildwood Wrap Dress by Sew House Seven (up to 49” bust)
- Wildwood Wrap Dress Curvy by Sew House Seven (up to 58” bust)
- St Germain Wrap Dress by Liesl + Co. (up to 46” bust)
‘Faux-fit and flare’ dress patterns:
- ZW Gather Dress by Birgitta Helmersson (up to 61” bust)
- Lyra Dress by Tilly and the Buttons (up to 61” bust)
Elasticated waist dress and jumpsuit patterns:
- Lotta Dress by Tilly and the Buttons (up to 51” bust)
- Asha Dress by Style Arc (up to 68” bust)
- Nova Jumpsuit by True Bias (up to 44.5” bust)
- Nova Jumpsuit by True Bias (up to 57.5” bust)
- Trillium Dress and Tunic by Made by Rae (up to 59” bust)
- Lennox Boilersuit by Homer + Howells (up to 49” bust)
- Sofia Dress and Top by Victory Patterns (up to 44” bust)
- Sofia Dress and Top by Victory Patterns (up to 58” bust)

Image source: True Bias
Skirt, trouser, pinafore and dungarees patterns
Elasticated waist skirt patterns:
- Mave Skirt by True Bias (up to 46.5” hip)
- Mave Skirt by True Bias (up to 59.5” hip)
- Sofia Pencil Skirt by Threads by Caroline (up to 50” hip)

Image source: Threads by Caroline
My favourite elastic waist trouser patterns:
- Luna Pants by Made By Rae (up to 59” hip)
- Arden Pants by Helen’s Closet (up to 58” hip)
Partly-elasticated trousers and shorts patterns:
- Emerson Pants and Shorts by True Bias (up to 46.5” hip)
- Emerson Pants and Shorts by True Bias (up to 61.5” hip)
- Dani Shorts and Pants by True Bias (up to 46.5” hip)
- Dani Shorts and Pants by True Bias (up to 61.5” hip)
- Rose Pants by Made by Rae (up to 62” hip)
- Aina Trousers and Culottes by Named Clothing (up to 56” hip)

Image source: Named Clothing
Buttonhole elastic:

Image source: William Gee
Amazing Check Your Thread listener Hinerangi @duckgoesoink experimented with hacking the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans pattern to include buttonhole elastic in the back of the waistband (shared through Stories).
Trouser patterns with adjustable straps:
- Mitchell Trousers by Closet Core Patterns (up to 61” hip)
- Square Pants by Stoxx Patterns (up to 63” hip)
Pinafore and dungarees patterns:
- Greta Dungarees by Made My Wardrobe (up to 53” hip)
- Yanta Overalls by Helen’s Closet (up to 58” hip)
- Heyday Dungarees by Waves and Wild (up to 63” hip)
- Ivy Pinafore by Jennifer Lauren Handmade (up to 63” hip)

Image source: Jennifer Lauren Handmade
Bias cut patterns:
- Sadie Slip Dress by Tessuti (up to bust 42”)
- Evie Bias Skirt by Tessuti (up to 48” hip)

So interesting and useful, especially all the links you worked so hard to include! Also really good point about not stitching through elastic – I’ve had trouble with RTW back elasticated garments because the elastic is so tight that the front fixed waist really digs in. The other thing that has worked for me is waist ties in dresses and skirts – either from the side to tie at the back, or two short ties on either side to pull the waist in a little but still allow flexibility.
I loved this episode! It’s funny how even just saying out loud that people’s bodies change over time (er, especially monthly) seems so radical.
One variation on adding elastic to waistbands I’ve always wanted to try is this one form Threads magazine, where elasticated dart-shaped inserts are added to the sides of pants which are tailored front & back, creating a tailored look which still accommodates size changes, from bloating to simply eating a larger meal than usual.
https://www.threadsmagazine.com/project-guides/fit-and-sew-pants/elastic-comfort-for-tailored-trousers
I’m new to the podcast, and have been happily listening to the back episodes and reading the show notes/blog. I only started home-making sewn clothes last September (been knitting and crocheting for decades), basically for all the reasons you go over in the podcast.
Hi Katherine, so happy that you have found the podcast and it’s helping you on your sewing journey! Thanks heaps for taking the time to leave this comment and share that Threads article! I have seen elastic insertions like that for maternity trousers but hadn’t considered it for non-maternity trousers, such a great idea. If you try this, please report back! All the best